Allantoin

Price range: $7.25 through $45.00 USD

INCI: Allantoin

Use: 0.5% – 2%

DOCUMENTS (view/download): SDS | COA: #1031

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Allantoin is a small, water-soluble diureide long used across cosmetic and personal care formulation for its skin-conditioning and soothing functionality. Chemically classified as the diureide of glyoxylic acid, it occurs naturally in comfrey (Symphytum officinale) root and leaf, among other plant sources, and is supplied as a fine, white, odorless crystalline powder meeting USP, EP, and BPC pharmacopeial specifications with consistent purity lot to lot. Formulators reach for allantoin as a mild keratolytic and keratoplastic agent: it softens and loosens the bonds between surface skin cells, supporting the skin’s natural desquamation process and contributing to a smoother, more refined skin texture. It is equally valued as a skin-conditioning and soothing agent, helping to buffer the irritation potential of surfactants, acids, and other active ingredients within a formula. These properties make allantoin a practical fit across facial and body moisturizers, lip care, after-sun and aftershave preparations, baby and sensitive-skin lines, and scalp care, where a well-tolerated, cost-effective multifunctional ingredient is needed.

Product Benefits

Helps soothe the visible appearance of skin irritation

Supports smoother-looking, softer-feeling skin texture
Helps improve the appearance of dry, rough skin
Contributes to the perceived comfort of formulas containing surfactants or acidic/alkaline ingredients
Supports the appearance of the skin’s natural surface renewal process

Formulation Notes

The US FDA has classified allantoin as an OTC Category I active ingredient (safe) for use at 0.5% to 2.0%.

Use level: typically 0.1–0.3%, up to 0.5% in standard formulas; up to 2% possible with rheological support

Solubility: soluble in hot water (~3.5% at 70°C); slightly soluble in cold water (~0.5% at 25°C), glycerin, and propylene glycol; insoluble in oils

pH: stable below pH 8; best formulated between pH 4.5–5.8 for higher use levels

Processing: add to the aqueous phase; dissolve at approximately 50°C

Above 0.5%: disperse in the heated water phase (up to 70°C) or during cooling above 50°C with good agitation; support with a rheology modifier (e.g., tara gum, xanthan gum, or carbomer) to prevent sedimentation

Not recommended for anhydrous systems

Applications

Facial and body moisturizers

– Hand and foot creams

– Lip balms and lip treatments

– After-sun and aftershave preparations

– Baby and sensitive-skin formulations

– Scalp and anti-dandruff treatments

– Bath and shower products

Marketing Claims

Allantoin is effective as a skin protectant even at low concentrations for cosmetic use.

The FDA has approved the following statements for nonprescription drug products containing 0.5% – 2.0%:

• For the temporary protection of minor cuts, scraps, burns and sunburn.

• To help prevent and temporarily protect chafed, chapped, cracked or wind-burned skin and lips.

• Relieves dryness, and softens cold sores and fever blisters Helps treat and prevent diaper rash.

• And protects chafed skin/minor skin irritation due to/associated with diaper rash and helps protect from/seal out wetness.

From the Chemist

Jennifer says…

“Allantoin is one of those ingredients I reach for when I want a formula to appeal to the sensitive skin market; including it in any formula that can handle it almost feels like a no brainer. It’s cheap, it’s stable, and it plays well with almost everything else in the beaker. The one thing formulators new to it get caught off guard by is the solubility ceiling. Past about 0.5%, it stops dissolving in cold water and just sits there unless you build in a rheology modifier to hold it in suspension. Once you know that, it’s a non-issue. Personally, I like to incorporate it at the same time as my gelling agent and/or before homogenization. I have never had any issues with crystalization with this approach. Formulating with it below the 0.5% threshold, it’s about as forgiving an ingredient as you’ll find.”

Compliance & Sourcing

Meets USP, EP, and BPC 34 pharmacopeial monograph specifications, with a minimum assay of 99%. Allantoin occurs naturally in comfrey (*Symphytum officinale*) and a range of other plant sources.

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